D2||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND WELCOMEwww.visitsoutheastenglaInside THAMES PATH: MARLOW TO WINDSOR PORTSMOUTH CHICHESTER THE CHILTERNS ISLE OF WIGHT BRIGHTON HOVE SURREY KENT EXMOOR CYCLE ROUTE LIVERPOOL HEART OF ENGLAND HERITAGE FINE FOOD IN YORKSHIRE BEST PUBS NORFOLK COASTAL WALK 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 12 14 16 17 18 20 21 22REDISCOVERENGLAND’S REPORT BY ERIC OWEN YOU DON’T NEED TO GO FAR THIS YEAR TO ENJOY SOME OF THE LOVELIEST HOLIDAY DESTINATIONSWIN A ROMANTIC SPA BREAK 13 WILDLIFE IN THE NORTH EAST 15ENGLAND’S SILLIEST EVENTS 19AGREAT FILM LOCATIONS, PLUS GARDENS IN THE SOUTH EAST 23TIME FOR US E-GUIDE For inspirational ideas on city breaks, arts and culture, history and heritage, eating out, spas, gardens, shopping, rail escapes, where to stay, what to do — and much more — flick through Visit South East England’s new Time For Us guide at www. visitsoutheastengland. com/timeforus Produced by Telegraph Create in association with Enjoy England and Tourism South East PICTURES Cover: britainonview/Simon Kreitem. P2-3: britainonview/Tourism South East/Rod Edwards, britainonview/ Flackley Ash Hotel/Joanna Henderson, britainonview/Kent Tourism Alliance/Daniel Bosworth. P4-5: britainonview/ Pawel Libera, Pictures Colour Library (2), Rex Features, britainonview/ Baxter Bradford, britainonview.com. P6-7: britainonview/John Miller, Andy Paradise, Pictures Colour Library, britainonview/Craig Roberts, britainonview/Olivier Roques-Ro, britainonview/Jill Swainson. P8-9: Ben Wood/Island Images, English Heritage Photo Library. P10-11: britainonview.com (2), britainonview/Ian Shaw, Pictures Colour Library (2). P12: britainonview/Tourism South East/Rod Edwards, britainonview.com. P14-15: Alamy (2). P16-17: britainonview/Grant Pritchard, britainonview/East Midlands Tourism/ Tony Pleavin, britainonview/ Pawel Libera (2). P18-19: britainonview. com, britainonview/Rod Edwards, Natural History Museum, Alamy (3). P20-21: Martin Pope/Telegraph Media Group, Kippa Matthews, Alamy. P22-23: britainonview/ Rod Edwards, britainonview/ Visit Peaks and Derbyshire/ Daniel Bosworth, britainonview/ NTPL/ Derek Croucher, britainonview/ Martin Brent, britainonview/Martin Brent.s I sit in my winter armchair considering sunlit days to come, Browning’s line, “Oh to be in England/Now that April’s there” keeps popping unbidden into my mind. This prompts the corollary question: I am in England, so why don’t I take advantage of it? Unlike Browning, I’m having Home-Thoughts, at Home, not from Abroad — and, in any case, abroad is losing its charm in direct proportion to the pound’s loss of purchasing power in foreign climes. Home is where the travel bargains are and where money will go further. I fancy a series of long weekends without the hassle of airports, the search for that elusive safe place we put our passports or the equally annoying search for a decent exchange rate. This year, Joan and I are planning ahead and I am drawing up a shortlist of breaks in England. The list is no problem — it’s keeping it short that creates the headache. Once you start looking at England, you realise what a lot it has to offer. There are worlds to explore right here on our own doorstep — and it’s time to look them over instead of overlooking them. England’s past stretches back into the swirling mists of myth. It comes as a shock to realise that we’ve boasted to foreign friends about Stonehenge and yet we’ve never actually been there. Or the truly mysterious Rollright Stones on the Oxfordshire-Warwickshir border. They’re going on the list. For scenic beauty there are towering crags above lakes and moors or gently rolling countryside leading down to coastal coves and golden sands. Devon and Cornwall call seductively. The Lake District, too. All hold out the prospect of cream teas in cute cottage-filled villages. England has traditions ranging from the solemn to the downright wacky. Cheese-rolling down Cooper’s Hill in Gloucestershire sounds fun, but may be more suited to those younger than us. Maybe the World Championships for Pooh Sticks (at Day’s Lock Island on the Thames) or for Marbles (at Crawley in West Sussex) are more our style. Armchair history is a hobby. This year, we aim for the real thing. There’s a lot of Henry VIII about, so celebrations of the royal lecher’s 500th anniversary at Hampton Court tempt. The Tudor connection takes us to Portsmouth, both for the Mary Rose and its stunning views. When it comes to castles and cathedrals we hardly know where to start. Joan is keen to return to her native North East — Bamburgh for its castle and superb beach, Durham for its castle and cathedral on their rock high above a loop in the River Wear, and York for its minster. I, on the other hand, yearn to see Salisbury and Lincoln, and also Canterbury Cathedral and Leeds Castle.It’s ridiculous that we live in the South East and have never seen these twin glories of Kent. All this great stuff within easy reach and we don’t visit it! Own up — I know we’re not alone. My list grows as I remember more places we’ve admired from afar and haven’t got around to. But there are historic pubs, too. At least three claim to be England’s oldest: the Royal Standard of England at Forty Green, Beaconsfield, Bucks; the nearby Red Lion in Penn, amid the scenic Chilterns; and Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem invites us to Nottingham (so a side trip to “Robin Hood Country” is on the cards). Actually, I don’t care which is the oldest. All I want is a traditional one that serves decent drink and good grub, and one of the glories of England is that wherever we go, there’s one to be found, often with a BB attached. And if it’s earned a Quality Rose endorsement, we know we’ll find good-value comfort. We’re heartened by the knowledge that English hotels have come on by leaps and bounds in recent years. Sheer luxury is on offer, with spas that send Joan into a warm glow just looking at their websites. And we’re world-beaters when it comes to fantastic gourmet food. Food festivals (Chester has a great one) and farmers’ markets abound.Joan insists I put something healthy on our list, so I propose a gentle cycling weekend along towpaths. The Midlands can claim a Venice of their own, thanks to the wonderfully restored waterways that emanate from Birmingham (it has great shopping, too) out into Shakespeare country, so Stratford here we come. Theatre also beckons in Chichester; this year we’ll finally make it to therenowned theatre festival. For visual art, I want to go north-west to The Lowry, at Salford Quays, Greater Manchester, or south-east to the Stanley Spencer Gallery in Cookham, Berkshire, both charming but in entirely different ways — industrial versus rural. England is calling us. And as we begin exploring our country, another bit of Browning will echo in my head: “God’s in his heaven — All’s right with the world!”BEST OF BRITAIN AND IRELAND 2009 The Best of Britain and Ireland, from March 28-29, is an exciting new show that invites you to explore the best of Britain and Ireland’s heritage, flavours, adventure, countryside, coast and luxury experiences. Find the treasures right here on your own doorstep... where to go, what to do, where to stay, what to see, what to taste and what to buy. Whether you are in search of the perfect day trip or holiday destination, or simply want to sample the delights of the specialist foods and drinks of a particular nation or region — this is the event for you. HALF-PRICE TICKETS FOR TELEGRAPH READERS Save 50 per cent on a double ticket (pay just £7.50 for two adult tickets rather than £15). Call 0871 230 5588 or book online at www.britainandirelandev and quote “EE50”.
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D1The Sunday TelegraphEXPLOREENGLAND A 24-page guide to great-value breaks and days out in the South East and beyondtelegraph.co.uk Sunday, February 22, 2009
D2||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND WELCOMEwww.visitsoutheastenglaInside THAMES PATH: MARLOW TO WINDSOR PORTSMOUTH CHICHESTER THE CHILTERNS ISLE OF WIGHT BRIGHTON HOVE SURREY KENT EXMOOR CYCLE ROUTE LIVERPOOL HEART OF ENGLAND HERITAGE FINE FOOD IN YORKSHIRE BEST PUBS NORFOLK COASTA
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D3MANYWONDERS Rocks of ages: clockwise from left, Stonehenge, Wiltshire; exploring Canterbury Castle; afternoon cream teas; a stroll in the Kent sunshineWELCOME ENJOY ENGLANDGREAT DAYS OUT IN THE SOUTH EAST FOR LESS Visiting South East England in 2009 doesn’t ha
D4||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENGLAND’S SOUTH EAST THE RIVER THAMESwww.visitsoutheastenglaONTHETRAILOFALIQUIDASSE Down by the riverside: clockwise from left, the Savill Garden; Cliveden Park; St George’s Chapel, Windsor; Brunel’s Sounding ArchREPORT BY PAUL BRAY GO WITH THE FLOW OF THE RIVE
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D5PORTSMOUTH ENGLAND’S SOUTH EASTREPORT BY NIGEL REYNOLDS SCAN THEHORIZON ANDLAUNCHYOURSELFINTO THEWORLDOF THE NAVY—PASTAND PRESENTHARBOURING HISTORY S ome 300ft below me lay what I realised was one of the finest sights in all of Britain and I had to admit that
D6||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENGLAND’S SOUTH EAST CHICHESTERwww.visitsoutheastenglaREPORT BY KATH TRUDIE STYLISH, FULL OF CULTURE AND MINUTES FROM THE SEA, CHICHESTER AND ITS SURROUNDS ARE MUST-SEESCOOLPLACE TOCHILL provincial art collection. In 1977, the former dean of Chichester Cathedra
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D7THE CHILTERNS ENGLAND’S SOUTH EASTAWALKER’SPARADISE REPORT BY PAUL BRAY QUIET FORESTS AND VALLEYS IN THE HOME COUNTIES ARE SURE TO DELIGHTFIND OUT MORE VISIT BUCKINGHAMSHIRE www.visitbuckinghamshir org GREAT VALUE Chiltern Railways has off-peak and group-save
D8||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENGLAND’S SOUTH EAST ISLE OF WIGHTwww.visitsoutheastengla FIND OUT MORE WIGHTLINK 0871 376 1000; www.wightlink.co.uk ACCOMMODATION A two-night, ferryinclusive luxury break at The Hambrough costs from £115 per person (based on two sharing). The package includes
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D9ISLE OF WIGHT ENGLAND’S SOUTH EASTAPROUD HERITAGE T his may come as a surprise — Queen Victoria was often amused. At Osborne House, her seaside home at East Cowes on the Isle of Wight, I discovered that one particular pastime that kept her smiling was billiard
D10||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENGLAND’S SOUTH EAST BRIGHTON HOVEwww.visitsoutheastengla Glorious rebirth: the exotic Pavilion; quirky shops in The Lanes attract plenty of customers, below rightGOBOHO BYTHESEAFIND OUT MORE VISIT BRIGHTON 0906 711 2255; www.visitbrighton.com ACCOMMODATION G
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D11SURREY ENGLAND’S SOUTH EASTREPORT BY FRED MAWER PICK YOUR WAY THROUGH THE WOODS OF THIS GLORIOUSLY GREEN COUNTYGARDENS INMIND appearing in 18th-century paintings of the garden. Ten minutes’ drive down the A3 brings you to Wisley, the vast flagship garden for
D12||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENGLAND’S SOUTH EAST KENTwww.visitsoutheastenglaATALEOFTWOCITIESIREPORT BY BILL OWEN TAKE A BREAK IN PLACES THAT INSPIRED THE LIKES OF DICKENS AND CHAUCER was standing with my wife, looking up at the windows of an old house. But I had another woman on my mind.
D14||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND EXMOOR CYCLE ROUTEwww.enjoyengland.comONYOURBIKEFOR THETOURDEMOOR REPORT BY RICHARD MADDEN BE COMPETITIVE OR GO ALONG FOR THE RIDE ON THIS FLEXIBLE 65-MILE CIRCULAR CYCLE ROUTEWhen I was at school, the name ‘‘Porlock’’ meant only one thing. Far f
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D15OUTDOOR ADVENTURE ENJOY ENGLANDTHEBIRDSANDTHEBEASTS REPORT BY LEE KAREN STOW IN SEARCH OF WILDLIFE IN THE GLORIOUS NORTH EASTFIND OUT MORE ACCOMMODATION Greycroft Guest House, Croft Place, Alnwick, offers BB from £40 per person, per night. 01665 602127; www.g
D16||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND LIVERPOOLwww.enjoyengland.comONAMAGICALHISTORYTOUR ’ve always loved arriving by rail into Liverpool. It’s not just that I’m a woollyback from Lancashire, thrilled at the sense of a great city gathering round me, nor the fact that the line I’m on
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D17HEART OF ENGLAND ENJOY ENGLANDMANYHAPPY RETURNS REPORT BY CHRIS MOSS THERE IS CAUSE FOR MUCH CELEBRATION DURING THIS YEAR FIND OUT MORE ACCOMMODATION Hopton House From £75 per room per night, bookable for a minimum two nights. 01547 530885; www. shropshirebre
D18||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND HERITAGEwww.enjoyengland.comBe there: clockwise from left, punting in Cambridge; Kew Gardens; St George’s Chapel, Windsor, where a celebratory concert will be heldFIND OUT MORE ATTRACTIONS Cambridge University 800th Anniversary www.800.cam.ac.uk
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D19QUIRKY CALENDAR ENJOY ENGLANDHigh flier: Worthing Birdman contest, left; set for shin-kicking in the Cotswolds, above; a dressed well in Derbyshire, belowTHEY’VEGOT TOBEJOKING REPORT BY NIGEL REYNOLDS IF YOU ENJOY WATCHING OTHERS MAKE FOOLS OF THEMSELVES, HER
D20||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND FINE FOODwww.enjoyengland.comGONORTHFOR THEVERYBESTIN COUNTYFARE Y orkshire is Britain’s largest county. It’s all but a country in itself, stretching from the east coast almost to the west. From the rugged terrain of the Peak District to the roll
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D21BEST PUBS ENJOY ENGLANDINTHEFOOTSTEPSOF KNIGHTSIN I REPORT BY ALEC LOM FRIENDLINESS ANDFINEFOOD INTHEHEART OFENGLANDt was blowing a bitter gale, battering me with icy gusts as I leant into the wind at the summit of British Camp, the Iron Age hill fort high in
D22||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday TelegraphENJOY ENGLAND NORFOLK COASTAL WALKwww.enjoyengland.com from Rajasthan, while others have a contemporary look, with a watercolour feel to them that reflects the Norfolk marshland. Dinner had a Norfolk feel too, with locally smoked salmon, Holkham Estate beef ca
The Sunday Telegraph FEBRUARY222009|| D23www.visitsoutheastenglaENJOY ENGLAND ENGLAND’S SOUTH EASTBLOCKBUSTINGLOCATIONS REPORT BY NIGEL REYNOLDS LINE UP FOR SOME OF THE NATION’S FINEST HISTORICAL BUILDINGS – ALSO ITS BEST-LOOKING MOVIE STARS he stately homes of England, Noël Coward recorded in song
D24||FEBRUARY222009 The Sunday Telegraph